One of the things Robert loves most about Paris and Versailles is the challenge of scheduling as many meals as possible at Michelin Star restaurants. What I didn’t realize because I hadn’t exactly studied the itineraries he kept tweaking (Sssshhh, don’t tell him), was that just a few days into the trip I already felt like a goose destined to become fois gras.
The first night everyone was in town we had reservations at Helen (The Cult of Fish). A couple of challenges here. One was that Robert’s mom and I were both craving a nice cocktail before dinner, like an old fashioned or a dirty martini. We were told they had an Aperol spritzer and either a white or red martini. Not interested in the Aperol spritzer for the evening and frightened of what a red or white martini might be, we took a hard pass and moved on to wine. As it turns out, after a quick Google session, the white and red martinis are actually straight vermouth, so I am patting myself on the back for that game-time decision. Second challenge was the menu was not available in English. The waitress did try to talk us through the unfamiliar items but it was a tad stressful. Several of us took the reliable but unimaginative option of the lobster, which was good, but I have to say I missed the usual accompaniments of lemon and warm butter, without which life just isn’t really worth living. So, while the service was superb and the company excellent, I for one walked away a little underwhelmed. I apologize for having no photos of the food to share as I was jetlagged and intimidated.
The following day, lunch reservations for four at restaurant Anne at Le Pavillon de la Reine Hotel were changed to reservations for two due to an outbreak of Covid amongst some family members who had been on a river cruise before meeting us in Paris. Since I knew we also had reservations aboard the dinner cruise, Bateaux Parisiens, I put my sore foot down and refused the three or four course luncheon and opted for a simple gaspacho and a chocolate souffle. The restaurant is in the courtyard of a five-star hotel and named for Anne of Austria, Queen of France in the 17th century who lived in the wing separating the residence from the Place des Vosges – the oldest square in Paris.
The host operates out of this beautiful basket as hotel guests pass back and forth from the square.
I cannot tell you how sad I am that I have no photos of the gaspacho, but who expected gaspacho to put on a show? The chilled tomato soup held a bright yellow ball of melon – like tennis ball sized ball. From what I could make out of the instructions given, it was frozen and when they poured something else delicious into my bowl I was to “Wait and eat it slowly”?? I found out what they meant when the ball cracked and started to dissolve. it was hollow inside but for some dainty croutons. It was refreshing and just perfect for a light lunch.
Next up, the river cruise, and sadly, still down two of our tribe. We were led to a long table at the very bow of the boat with a view uninterrupted by other diners. The dinner lasts a couple of hours+ as you float up and down the Seine, with the waitstaff racing from table to table delivering food and drinks and tidbits about the sights as they pass. “That is the Louvre!” they point as they deliver more bread rolls.
Although obviously not a Michelin restaurant, the food was quite good.
I enjoyed a plethora of things I should be ashamed to be eating if I want to be politically correct, but when in France… so I had the fois gras, the veal, cheeses and the peach cake with raspberry coulis. And look! I actually stopped stuffing my face long enough to snap a photo or two.
The following day we had lunch scheduled at Le Jules Verne in the Eiffel Tower. You may (or may not) recall Robert and I have eaten there each time we’ve been to Paris. The first time it was Michelin two star. The following time, it had lost a star and we were definitely unimpressed with the service. I believe in my previous blog about it I referred to the meal as a “hostage situation.”
I am delighted to report that not only was the food spectacular, but the service was the most enjoyable we’d yet to encounter. The staff was friendly and funny. (Whether they meant to be humorous or not is beside the point.) Our waiter asked if we have a champagne we prefer, and after freezing up for a moment thinking of the brands we slip into orange juice on a Sunday morning, we blurted “Veuve Cliquot?” To which he responded with a shrug, “Well, if you like champagne you get at a petrol station.” Ouch. Just ouch.
I believe we did a 5-course tasting menu… or maybe not. I’m telling you, it is all a blur. But it was a work of art that involved a pre-amuse-bouche, an amuse-bouche, crab, langoustine, a risotto, a pre-dessert and an apricot dessert (or chocolate if you hadn’t already had a souffle the previous day). Don’t ask which image is which as I have maybe not taken one at the beginning?? I need a keeper.
And there you have it food-wise, at least for the Paris.
We did go to a favorite of Robert’s discovered via watching Anthony Bourdain, but I am sad to say it was really not good this time around. This was doubly depressing because it was his birthday and his chosen destination.
Next up… Paris sights, then we head to Versailles where there was, of course, more food and more to see.
Diary of Ann Franks 